El Sagrario: Valdivieso 120. Located just one block from the main square (right behind the Cathedral), this architecturally beautiful restaurant on three levels serves pizza and Italian fare to a younger set of Oaxacans who come for the live music and party atmosphere as much as for the food and drink. On the top floor of the restaurant they serve house specialties, including traditional Oaxacan cuisine, seafood, and a variety of beef and chicken dishes. You may choose from their selection of wines and liquors while enjoying a pleasant view from one of the balconies. On the botton floor you will find the pizzeria and soda fountain where they offer a daily buffet with a range of main dishes, soups, salad bar, regional appetizers, pizza and pastas. A la carte service includes pizza, hamburgers, fried chicken and spaghetti. The bar is on the lower level, where you can enjoy live music and dancing nightly. Live music 9 p.m. to midnight. Moderate

Pizza Rustica: Upstairs on the corner of Alcala and Murgia. Serving the authentic cuisines of Italy. The cooking is supervised by the owner, Domenico Passaforte from Sulmona, Italy. Salads, pastas, & pizzas accompanied by Italian wine are served in a delightfully rustic setting. The restaurant is open everyday, from 1:00 pm to 11:00 pm. Live Jazz music on Friday and Sunday evening.

La Olla: This small, charming, family owned restaurant has a lot going for it. In English the name would be "the pot." Located only two blocks from historic Santo Domingo Church, the restaurant doubles as an art gallery where local artists hang their work on the peach-colored walls. It is very popular with both foreign residents and visitors as well as with locals. The menu is varied. Its best offerings are the large, delicious, and healthful salads and regional dishes that the owner, Pilar Arroyo, creates herself. Fresh fruits and vegetables are used here to create healthful and visually attractive dishes .

Delicious sandwiches are served on home baked whole wheat bread and even the mayonnaise is made on the premises. There is a full a la carte menu featuring a wide selection of dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The prices are moderate and the quality quite high. There is a wide variety of health drinks available using unusual combinations of fresh fruits and vegetables. A new second-floor dining room doubles the restaurant space, and the rustic rooftop terrace, complete with hammocks, is a fine place to have a drink and enjoy the city view. Service tends to be a bit slow. MC, V. Closed Sun.  (• MAP). 

Doña Elpidia: Miguel Cabrera 413. The phrase "home-style cooking" is often used by restaurants, but at Doña Elpidia's it really does mean something. Virtually an institution in Oaxaca - for the traveler, it means having a meal like that served as the main dinner in a Mexican home. Finding Doña Elpidia is a bit of a trick, to say the least; it's 5 1/2 blocks south of the zócalo, between Arista and Nuño del Mercado. Look for a small sign on the wall (left side of the street) saying only RESTAURANT. When you enter through the door, a chalk board with the day's meal will be in front of you. You will find some tables behind the overgrown garden. There is also indoor dining. The comida corrida includes a basket of bread, an appetizer, vegetable or pasta soup, rice, a meat or enchilada course, and a dessert. Beer and other beverages are sold. Fixed-price lunch approximately $6. (usd) Open: Daily 1-5pm. Inexpensive. Credit Cards are not accepted

El Gecko: The mustard-color courtyard of this serenely pleasant coffeehouse is drenched in purple bugamvilia vines. Coffee drinks - including a refreshing iced cappuccino - are offered along with light food. You can use the Internet services in the same plaza, as you sip your java. No credit cards. 5 de Mayo # 412 Plaza Fray Lucero Closed Sun.

Coffee Beans: A great place for a delicious cup of Oaxacan Pluma Hidalgo coffee where you can choose from a selection of cakes and quiches. Different mixtures and roasts of Oaxacan coffee beans are on sale. No credit cards. 5 de Mayo # 400-C street between Abasolo & Gurrión.

MORE REVIEWS COMING SOON:

• La Capilla • El Patio • Las Quince Letras • Itanoni

Your own reviews are always welcome. When you return from Oaxaca, please send us an e-mail with your comments. Thanks!